Which Fats Support Skin Health and Help with Melasma?

When it comes to skin health—especially conditions like melasma—what we eat can be just as important as what we apply topically. One of the most overlooked dietary components in skin care is fat. But not all fats are created equal.

Let’s explore how different types of fats affect the skin, particularly in the context of melasma, and how to make smart dietary choices to support a healthy skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Every cell in our body, including skin cells, is surrounded by a phospholipid membrane—a structure made in part from fats. The quality of fats we consume directly influences the flexibility, permeability, and resilience of these membranes. This, in turn, affects the lipid barrier of the skin, which plays a crucial role in hydration, protection, and inflammation control.

Melasma is often linked to chronic inflammation, both in the skin and systemically. That’s why choosing the right types of fats can be a powerful tool in managing this condition from the inside out.

There are three main categories of dietary fats:

• Saturated fats
• Monounsaturated fats
• Polyunsaturated fats (PUFA)

Let’s start with PUFA.

PUFAs include both omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Due to their chemical structure, they are prone to oxidation, which can lead to increased inflammation if consumed in poor-quality or already oxidized forms (like many processed vegetable oils).

Common oils high in PUFA include:

• Canola oil
• Soybean oil
• Sunflower oil

These oils are often extracted using high heat and chemical solvents, which can degrade their quality and potentially contribute to skin issues, including increased sensitivity to sunlight.

Omega-3 fatty acids are strongly anti-inflammatory and essential for skin health. Unfortunately, many people are deficient in them.

To boost your intake:

• Eat fatty fish 3–4 times per week (salmon, mackerel, sardines, trout, herring, anchovies)
• Include plant-based sources like flaxseed oil (stored in the fridge), chia seeds, ground flaxseeds, walnuts, and pecans
• Consider supplementing with high-quality cod liver oil or fish oil

Omega-6 fats can be both pro- and anti-inflammatory. The key is balance—modern diets often contain too much omega-6 and too little omega-3, with ratios exceeding 10:1. Ideally, this should be closer to 3:1.

To support skin health:

• Limit processed sources of omega-6
• Include anti-inflammatory omega-6 like GLA (gamma-linolenic acid), found in:
  • Evening primrose oil
  • Borage oil
  • Black currant seed oil

These fats help rebuild the skin’s lipid barrier and may also ease hormonal symptoms like menstrual cramps.

Found in butter, coconut oil, and animal sources (meat, eggs, dairy), saturated fats are stable and resistant to oxidation, making them suitable for cooking. However, excessive intake can stiffen cell membranes, reducing nutrient absorption and potentially increasing cardiovascular risk.

While they are still needed in our body as a source of energy and building blocks for hormones and cell membranes, use them in moderation and balance with unsaturated fats.

These are skin-friendly fats that support the lipid barrier and reduce inflammation. Great sources include:

• Olive oil
• Olives
• Avocados
• Almonds
• Macadamia nuts

Olive oil is especially beneficial due to its content of hydroxytyrosol, a powerful antioxidant that:

• Protects against UVA-induced skin damage
• Inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production (often overactive in melasma)

Choose cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil for maximum benefits. Greek olive oils, known for their bitterness, may also support digestion and liver function—both important for skin health.

Less commonly discussed, omega-7 fatty acids are excellent for people with very dry or sensitive skin. They help restore smoothness and comfort.

Sources include:

• Sea buckthorn oil
• Macadamia nuts
• Fatty fish

Another great reason to include these foods in your diet!

Trans fats are artificially created during food processing (they do not exist in nature) and are harmful to both skin and overall health. They are found in:

• Margarine
• Fast food
• Industrial baked goods

Look for terms like “partially hydrogenated” or “partially hardened” on labels—and avoid them whenever possible.

To support your skin and manage melasma from within:

• Prioritize omega-3 from fish and plant sources
• Use high-quality olive oil and other omega-9-rich foods
• Cook with stable fats like ghee or coconut oil
• Avoid processed vegetable oils and trans fats
• Consider GLA and omega-7 supplementation for added skin support

If you found this helpful and want to learn more about how nutrition affects skin health look for other blog posts about skin health.

Please also note that there is a possibility to test the proportion of the fats in your cells by performing a simple blood spot test – if you are interested please let me know – I can arrange it for you.